DepthReading

Adventure in Sanmenxia

Summary: Sanmenxia city is home to China’s first modern water control project, the Sanmenxia Dam, that was built on the border between Henan and Shanxi province. This is also where China’s all important Yell ...

Sanmenxia city is home to China’s first modern water control project, the Sanmenxia Dam, that was built on the border between Henan and Shanxi province. This is also where China’s all important Yellow River flows. Famed for its waterways, Sanmenxia has four piers for passenger boat services so for a different mode of travelling, you may choose to travel by river to the city to enjoy the river view and a slow ride.

Adjoining Luoyang in the east, Funiushan and Nanyang in the south and Xi’an in the west, it’s not difficult to get to Sanmenxia by road since two major highways the Sanzhe and Lianhuo cut through the city. By rail, just hop on the Longhai Railway or Zhengxi High-speed Railway which make regular stops.

Like the rest of cities in Henan, Sanmenxia has four distinct seasons. Though Winter can be quite harsh, particularly in late December and January when the temperature usually falls below 0°C, the city is popular among visitors for its icy landscape. Another draw during winter is a visit to Swan Lake.

The Swan City

Nature beckons in this city that’s best visited from March to May, or in September and October. But if there’s room in the bag for a load of thermal wear, try visiting in winter as the temperature hovers between 5°C and 10°C, or sometimes even below 0°C, and head out to Swan Lake. The area covering in the National Wetland Park of Sanmenxia is so named as it attracts flocks of white swans each year from October to March. With thousands of migratory white swans making home in Sanmenxia, the city has been dubbed “Swan City”. Even when winter arrives, these elegant creatures will be found around the lake, dancing around the ice like ballerinas, waiting for the arrival of warmer weather and their young cygnets.

Swan Lake

Despite the icy cold temperature, Sanmenxia is the place you should consider visiting in winter if you’d like to see the famous Swan Lake. You can easily get there by taking bus number 1 or number 2 from the city centre.

Every winter and up till early spring, the wetland in the ecological zone of the city attracts tens of thousands of swans from Siberia. The wetland has been well developed by the municipal government into an ecological park and has become a 4A National Scenic Spot spanning 600 hectares that is open to the public for free.

Swan Lake is the main attraction of the Wetland Ecological Park, with the Siberian swans staying at the lake from late October until late March. When in season, the lake is full of swans and is certainly the best spot in China to view a huge gathering of swans, forming a perfect picture painted by nature.

Get your camera fully charged before you go. As described by many tourists, visitors “can’t help snatching tons of photos of the lake”.

Swan Lake opens daily and you can stay until nightfall if you are a genuine bird watcher!

Sanmenxia Dam

The Yellow river runs 120km through Sanmenxia city, and the waves are rough in some areas. The legendary figure, Dayu, was said to have tamed the river by “hewing” it into three rocky islets, thus the name “Sanmenxia” (The Gorge of Three Gates).

Modern man however took on the next challenge, building in 1957 the first major water control project in China. Construction of the Sanmenxia Dam started in 1957 and took three years to complete. Though not as grand as China’s state-of-the-art Three Gorges Dam along the Yangtze River, Sanmenxia Dam is nonetheless a modern engineering accomplishment that takes care of flood control, hydropower production and irrigation.

Located in the northeast of the city, which is about a 45-minute bus ride from the downtown area, the 713m by 106m dam straddles the Yellow River and joins a mountain on both sides. While a modern marvel, the dam also offers natural beauty to appreciate depending on the season. You will find the river roaring loudly from June to October when the dam is being discharged of the fury of the river. At other times, it’s flowing peacefully with snow covered mountains nearby.

Near the base of the dam, there is a stone landmark with an inscription of Chinese characters Di Zhu (strong pillar), which was said to be used by Dayu to control floods and symbolises the formidable spirit of Chinese people.

Sanmenxia Dam opens from 8am to 6:30pm and you can see the engineering wonder for RMB30 (US$4.84).

Yuxi Canyon

If you are into nature or adventure, then you won't want to miss Yuxi Canyon. Located in Lushi county, it’s about 100km away from downtown Sanmenxia and takes about two hours by bus.

This is a perfect spot for adventurers as the area offers white-water rafting from 12:30pm to 5pm. It’s RMB186 (US$30), down the 6km waterway which is best enjoyed from March to October, including the months in summer, because you will cool down immediately in the streams.

The faint-hearted can choose to just explore the 4A National Scenic Spot that spans 3,268 hectares and features many water-spraying waterfalls, clear lakes and meandering streams, oddly-shaped rocks and caves.

Underground Homes

If you need a break, make a stop at one of the cave-like traditional homes in the area. The Cave-Dwellings, or Tianjing Yaoyuan in Chinese have also been dubbed as “the underground Siheyuan” (traditional Chinese quadrangles in Beijing). You can't see the Cave-dwellings from afar. But once up close, you will discover uniquely designed below-surface courtyards and houses in a 7m-deep square-shaped pit.

There are 12 caves that are used as homes that were chiselled on all four sides of the pit. In one corner, there’s a slope leading to the surface for people to enter or leave. At the centre, there are two metre-wide seepage wells which are used to prevent the courtyard from flooding during heavy rains. There’s also a small garden with a tree in the courtyard and you will see the top of the tree first before you see the cave homes and its residents.

Enter the caves and experience the simplistic lifestyle. The cave-dwelling may be Spartan but they are smart too. The pit can fend off the cold of winter as the high walls prevent wind from entering the houses. At the same time, the houses stay relatively cool in summer as they are several metres below the surface and don’t absorb too much heat.

The homes also serve as a resting stop for tourists who can get to try local traditional food.Yuxi Canyon opens from 8:30am to 6pm. If you just want to enjoy the view it’s RMB60 (US$9.68). But you can opt for a package deal for all the actives, including drifting and rock climbing (sold separately at RMB30 or US$4.84).

Hangu Pass

Hangu Pass, also known as Hanguguan Ancient Culture Tourist Zone, is a strategic military post built during China’s Warring States period. It was once heavily guarded by soldiers from the State of Qin, as the post was the best route to invade central plains – the heartland of China.

The great Chinese philosopher and the founder of Taoism, Laozi, also wrote his classic work Daodejing at Hangu Pass. The place holds an annual ceremony celebrating the birth of Laozi, which attracts thousands of tourists from China and overseas each year.

Though the site is under the administration of Lingbao city and a two hour bus ride away, it is one of the most visited places for its historical, cultural and architectural significance. Hangu Pass features a statue of Laozi, a wall inscribed with texts in Daodejing, Taoism temples and buildings with distinct features of the Warring States period.

As the site is rather large and located far from the city, it’s usually quiet and not crowded. Looking at the ancient architectures and texts in this peaceful place, it’s hard to imagine that it used to be a military post that witnessed many battles. Nevertheless, stand at the higher ground and take in the view of rugged mountains and paths around, you can visualise the strategic value of the pass. The Chinese describe it as a post that one man can guard against ten thousand enemies.

You can explore Hangu Pass, which opens from 8am to 5:30pm, for RMB80 (US$12.90).

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