DepthReading

Exploring Ancient Capital Cities

Summary: Travelers wanting to experience a holiday with a difference should mark down the central Chinese province of Henan. With its rich history and culture, Henan offers the unique opportunity to step back ...

Travelers wanting to experience a holiday with a difference should mark down the central Chinese province of Henan. With its rich history and culture, Henan offers the unique opportunity to step back in time when exploring ancient cities.

Ancient Luoyang

The city of Luoyang is one of the oldest in Henan, and has been the site for many ancient capitals. The area has long been considered sacred as it is believed to be sitting in the geographical center of China, at the intersection of the Luo and Yi rivers.

The name Luoyang, with reference to the river Luo, has long been mentioned in Chinese history, as its fortunes rose and fell with different dynasties. It was a capital city in 2070 BC during the Xia Dynasty and the ensuing Western Bo kingdom. The ruins of Western Bo can still be found in modern Luoyang. And today’s city stands over the ruins of another capital city that once stood in the area, Wangcheng, established by the Eastern Zhou Dynasty in 771 BC.

Today, visitors are able to view parts of that ancient city at Wangcheng Park where the ruins now lie in modern Luoyang. The biggest city park in Luoyang, Wangcheng Park is also where the city’s famous peony festival is held.

Luoyang flourished during the Eastern Han period (25-220 AD), hosting missions from the Roman Empire, and missionaries who brought Buddhism, witnessed by the White Horse Temple, the first Buddhist temple in China, and a popular tourist attraction today.

After being almost decimated in 311 AD, Luoyang rose from the ashes under the Northern Wei Dynasty in 493 AD that saw the creation of the famous Longmen Grottoes that many enjoy today.

Old Town District

Another part of Luoyang that allows visitors to step back in time is the Old Town District. It is the oldest part of Luoyang city. First built in the Western Zhou dynasty (1046 – 771BC), the district has over 3,000 years of history.

Stroll in the district and take in the views of everything that comes with age – stone paved roads, brick-and-stone shops that line both sides of the narrow streets and architecture with ancient designs – you’ll feel like yo’ve been transported back in time.

On the East Street and West Street, shops have kept their old appearances with the distinct style of the Ming and Qing dynasties. And though the shops may offer modern goods, such as souvenirs, clothes and hardware, all keep to the old style, with owners still hanging silk banners that are embroidered with their shop’s names at the store front.

Part of the district is also a residential area. This is where you’ll see locals selling and eating food, sworking on paintings and other craft, sipping tea or playing mahjong in the street. It is a trademark of Luoyang Old Town District and part of the charm that draws tourists to the area.

Time to Feast

At night, the district comes even more alive. Tables and chairs are laid out in the open and a variety of street food appear. The bustling night market is a favourite spot not only for tourists, but also people of Luoyang. Don't mind the noise – this is a perfect portrait of life in Luoyang.

Ignore the crowd and calls from vendors. Grab a seat and sample some dishes that shouldn’t be missed, like Bufan Soup that’s based on a recipe developed over 120 years ago is.

The bone marrow soup has a big range of ingredients, including daylily, rice noodles, leek, seaweed, coriander and shrimps mixed with condiments such as pepper, vinegar and salt. Similar to western onion soup, the spicy and a little bit sour, Bufan soup is served with a pastry cover. In this case, it’s a thin green pancake that’s made from green bean, so it is slightly sweet. And this gives the dish its name, Bufan Soup, which means the soup that doesn’t need stirring.

Zhang Family Wontons

These are not ordinary wontons – the name Zhang Family carries some prestige in Luoyang as the restaurant has been in business for over 150 years.

Invented in the late Qing dynasty, the second generation of Zhang Family improved on the recipe in 1920, which is the one you’ll taste today. Different from other wontons or dumplings, Zhang Family Wontons have a rich filling that’s made from chicken, chicken blood, omelette, shrimps and starchy noodles. When served, you’ll also get a specially made sauce that’s mixed with lard, pepper, vinegar, soy sauce, chicken and pork broth.

Though the ingredients are rich, the wontons aren’t greasy, and the strong flavoured sauce is a treat to your taste buds. Give it a try and you’ll know what made Zhang Family Wontons a household name in Luoyang.

Lanzhou Noodles

Though Luoyang Old Town District carries distinct Chinese characteristics, there’s also the presence of a small Muslim community. That means you can get a special treat to Muslim food as well!

There are plenty of Muslim restaurants, most of which serve Lanzhou Noodles. The noodles are handmade, with lamb, chicken, or beef mixed with spices as toppings. There are also handmade buns to go along with the dish which all taste different from typical Chinese food.

Luoyang Old Town District is conveniently located near the Luoyang Railway Station. Abundant bus services, such as number 4, 9, 22 and 41, can take you there from the city centre. Look out for the large arched city gate – Lijing Gate. The gate dates back to 600AD and is your entrance to the past, at Luoyang Old Town District.

Ancient Kaifeng

Located on the southern bank of the ancient Yellow River is Kaifeng, another city in Henan that was the capital city for many ancient dynasties. It was first used as a capital city in 364 BC during the Warring States period but soon fell into ruin after a devastating war.

The city began its rise with the Tang dynasty, where it was known as Bian – a reference still used today of the city – and during the Song dynasty. According to ancient books, the city was filled with people, wealth, food and shops during the Song period – not unlike what Kaifeng is today.

During the golden period of the Song dynatr, what’s known as the Iron Pagoda or Youguosi Pagoda was constructed. Made of brick that resembles old iron, the pagoda survived natural disasters and war, and is today, the oldest landmark from ancient Kaifeng that modern man is able to marvel at.

Ancient Town of Kaifeng

The ancient town of Kaifeng is guarded by a wall that stretches 14.4km. The wall has kept the characteristics of the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties and has become an attraction for its long history.

Built over 2,300 years ago during the Warring States period, Girder Door, or Daliang Gate, is the oldest part of the city wall. The gate has seen many wars and has been battered by nature, from storms to floods. It was first restored in 1814 by the Qing government. In 1994, the Kaifeng municipal government carried out major restoration work and restored a few gates to their original appearance. Four years later, more work was done, this time to the grand gate that stands at 6m tall, 50m long and takes up 2,207m2 of land is the symbol for the ancient town of Kaifeng.

Not everything could be salvaged though. But if the bricks and tiles could speak, what wonderful tales of history they would tell.

Time to Feast Again

Those who love Xiaolongbao (mini soupy buns), you are in for a real treat! Kaifeng’s Soup Dumplings come from the same food family and for many, they taste even better.

Said to be invented over 600 years ago, Soup Dumplings are a combination of three major foods in northern China: Noodles, pork and soup. The skin is made from flour – the same ingredient of noodles, while the filling is pork mixed with crab meat. And just as its name suggests, they are filled with tasty soup. Though they look pretty much the same as Xiaolongbao, Soup Dumplings taste slightly different due to its fillings.

The best place to try the dumplings would be the night market near the ancient Drum Tower. The buzzing area serves all types of food, and this is where you’ll be able to try many Kaifeng specialties, both modern and ancient.

One speciality of Kaifeng is Bucket Chicken. It is strictly prepared with locally bred hens that are between one and three years old. There is also a requirement for the weight – the selected hens should usually be around 1,250g.

A sorghum stalk is stuffed inside the chicken as support, as the chicken is e served whole. After stewing in a soup with aniseed, cooking wine, spring onions and ginger for at least two hours, the cooked Bucket Chicken has a bright yellow colour and a crisp texture.

Bucket Chicken does not only taste good, but it is also supposedly nutritious value. Being high in protein, it was recommended in 1994, by the China National Food Industry Association as an Excellent Food Product.

The ancient town of Kaifeng is in the city area. You can take bus 11, 13, 18, 21, 30 and many other services to get there.

Song Dynasty Ancient Culture Park

If you have time and don’t mixing ancient with modern, check out the Song Dynasty Ancient Culture Park that’s not far from the city wall of the ancient town. The park features a great number of relics from the Song dynasty (960 – 1279), such as the Iron Tower, Eastern City of the Song dynasty, Dragon Gazebo and the Prime Minister’s Office.

There are regular shows daily at the park and during festive periods, special events are held there. Coming up during the Chinese New Year will be a special lantern festival that will be held from 1 - 25 February. The festival based around the theme of the year of the monkey will include shows, such as “Hundreds of Stage Shows for the Imperial Palace”, “Lighting up lanterns on the Iron Tower”, drum performances, and boat parades, all intended to highlight the glory of the golden era of the Song dynasty..

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